Sorovako, iri pachitsuwa cheSulawesi chekuIndonesia, ndeimwe yemigodhi mikuru yenickel pasi rose. Nickel chikamu chisingaonekwe chezvinhu zvakawanda zvezuva nezuva: inonyangarika musimbi isingatsvi, zvinhu zvinodziya mumidziyo yemumba uye maelectrode mumabhatiri. Yakaumbwa makore anopfuura mamiriyoni maviri apfuura apo makomo akapoteredza Sorovako akatanga kuoneka pamwe chete nemakanganiso anoshanda. Laterites - ivhu rakapfuma mu iron oxide uye nickel - rakaumbwa nekuda kwekudonha kusingaperi kwemvura inopisa. Pandakatyaira scooter ndichikwira gomo, ivhu rakachinja ruvara rwaro kuita rutsvuku nemitsara yeropa-orenji. Ndaigona kuona fekitari yenickel pachayo, chimney yebrown ine guruva yakakura seguta. Matayi madiki erori saizi yemotokari akaunganidzwa. Migwagwa yakachekwa nepakati pemakomo matsvuku akakora uye mambure makuru anodzivirira kudonha kwevhu. Mabhazi ekambani yekuchera Mercedes-Benz anotakura vashandi. Mureza wekambani unofambiswa nemarori ekutakura zvinhu ekambani uye maamburenzi emumugwagwa. Ivhu rine makomo uye rine makomba, uye ivhu dzvuku rakati sandara rakapetwa kuita trapezoid ye zigzag. Nzvimbo iyi yakachengetedzwa newaya dzine minzwa, magedhi, marambi emotokari uye mapurisa emakambani ari kufamba-famba munzvimbo yakakura seLondon.
Mugodhi uyu unotungamirirwa nePT Vale, iyo ine chikamu chehurumende dzeIndonesia neBrazil, ine migove inobatwa nemakambani ekuCanada, Japan nemamwe emarudzi akawanda. Indonesia ndiyo inogadzira nickel yakawanda pasi rose, uye Vale ndiyo yechipiri mumigodhi yenickel yakakura mushure meNorilsk Nickel, kambani yeRussia iri kugadzira mari muSiberia. MunaKurume, mushure mekupindwa kweRussia muUkraine, mitengo yenickel yakapetwa kaviri pazuva uye kutengeserana paLondon Metal Exchange kwakamiswa kwevhiki. Zviitiko zvakaita seizvi zvinoita kuti vanhu vakaita saElon Musk vashamisike kuti nickel yavo yakabva kupi. MunaChivabvu, akasangana neMutungamiri weIndonesia Joko Widodo kuti vakurukure nezve "kubatana" kunogona kuitika. Anofarira nekuti mota dzemagetsi dzinofamba kure dzinoda nickel. Bhatiri reTesla rine makirogiramu angangoita makumi mana. Hazvishamisi kuti hurumende yeIndonesia inofarira zvikuru kutamira kune mota dzemagetsi uye inoronga kuwedzera zvibvumirano zvemigodhi. Panguva iyi, Vale inoda kuvaka zvicherwa zviviri zvitsva muSorovaco uye kugadzirisa chimwe chazvo.
Kuchera nickel muIndonesia inyaya itsva. Mukutanga kwezana remakore rechi20, hurumende yeDutch East Indies yakatanga kufarira "zvinhu zvayo zvekunze", zvitsuwa zvisiri zveJava neMadura, izvo zvaive chikamu chikuru chezvitsuwa izvi. Muna 1915, mainjiniya wemigodhi wekuDutch Eduard Abendanon akataura kuti akawana nickel deposit kuSorovako. Makore makumi maviri gare gare, HR "Flat" Elves, nyanzvi yezve geology yekambani yeCanada Inco, akasvika ndokuchera gomba rekuyedza. MuOntario, Inco inoshandisa nickel kugadzira mari nezvikamu zvezvombo, mabhomba, ngarava nemafekitori. Kuedza kweElves kuwedzera muSulawesi kwakakanganiswa nekutora Indonesia neJapan muna 1942. Kusvika Inco yadzoka muma1960, nickel haina kukanganiswa zvakanyanya.
Nekukunda chibvumirano cheSorovaco muna 1968, Inco yaitarisira kuwana pundutso kubva mumabasa akawanda asingadhuri uye zvibvumirano zvekutengesa kunze kwenyika zvinobudirira. Chirongwa chacho chaive chekuvaka muchina wekunyungudutsa, dhamu rekupa chikafu, uye nzvimbo yekucherera matombo, uye kuunza vashandi vekuCanada kuti vatarisire zvese. Inco yaida nzvimbo yakachengeteka yevatungamiriri vavo, nzvimbo yakachengetedzwa zvakanaka yeNorth America musango reIndonesia. Kuti vaivake, vakabhadhara nhengo dzesangano rezvemweya reIndonesia Subud. Mutungamiriri wayo uye muvambi wayo ndiMuhammad Subuh, aishanda seakaunzi muJava kuma1920. Anoti humwe husiku, paaifamba, bhora rechiedza rakawira pamusoro wake. Izvi zvakaitika kwaari husiku hwese kwemakore akati wandei, uye, maererano naye, zvakavhura "hukama pakati pesimba raMwari rinozadza nyika yese nemweya wemunhu." Pakazosvika ma1950, akanga asvika pakuonekwa naJohn Bennett, muongorori wemafuta efossil wekuBritain uye muteveri waGeorge Gurdjieff anoshamisa. Bennett akakoka Subuh kuEngland muna 1957 uye akadzokera kuJakarta neboka idzva revadzidzi vekuEurope neAustralia.
Muna 1966, sangano iri rakagadzira kambani yeinjiniya isina kugona inonzi International Design Consultants, iyo yakavaka zvikoro nezvivakwa zvemahofisi muJakarta (yakagadzirawo purani huru yeDarling Harbor muSydney). Anokurudzira nzvimbo yekunze yekuchera zvinhu muSorovako, nzvimbo yakasiyana nevaIndonesia, kure nenyonganyonga yemigodhi, asi yaitarisirwa zvizere navo. Muna 1975, nharaunda ine suo ine supermarket, matare etennis nekirabhu yegorofu yevashandi vekune dzimwe nyika yakavakwa makiromita mashoma kubva kuSorovako. Mapurisa ega ega anochengetedza muganhu nekupinda musupermarket. Inco inopa magetsi, mvura, maair conditioner, nhare nechikafu chinotengeswa kunze kwenyika. Sekureva kwaKatherine May Robinson, nyanzvi yezvevanhu akaita basa remumunda ikoko pakati pa1977 na1981, "vakadzi vakapfeka mabhurugwa mapfupi eBermuda nemabuns vaityaira vachienda kusupermarket kunotenga pizza yakaomeswa nechando vozomira kuti vadye zvekudya uye vonwa kofi panze. Imba ine air conditioner iri munzira yekudzokera kumba i "nhema yemazuva ano" kubva kumba kweshamwari.
Nzvimbo iyi ichiri kuchengetwa uye ichitariswa. Iye zvino vatungamiriri vakuru vekuIndonesia vanogara ikoko, muimba ine bindu rakachengetedzwa zvakanaka. Asi nzvimbo dzeveruzhinji dzakazara nemasora, simende yakapwanyika, nenzvimbo dzekutamba dzine ngura. Dzimwe dzimba dzekugara dzakasiyiwa uye masango atora nzvimbo yadzo. Ndakaudzwa kuti kusashanda zvakanaka uku kwakakonzerwa nekutenga kwaVale Inco muna 2006 uye kutama kubva pakushanda nguva yakazara kuenda kumabasa ekondirakiti uye vashandi vanofamba-famba. Musiyano uripo pakati penzvimbo dzekugara neSorovako ikozvino wakavakirwa pamakirasi chete: mamaneja anogara munzvimbo dzekugara, vashandi vanogara muguta.
Nzvimbo yacho pachayo haisvikiki, ine makomo ane miti inosvika 12,000 square kilometers akakomberedzwa nefenzi. Magedhi akati wandei ane vanhu uye migwagwa inotariswa. Nzvimbo ine zvicherwa zviri kushanda - inosvika 75 square kilometers - yakakomberedzwa newaya ine minzwa. Humwe husiku ndakanga ndichikwira mudhudhudhu wangu ndichikwira gomo ndikamira. Handina kukwanisa kuona murwi wetsvina yakavanzwa kuseri kwegomo, asi ndakaona zvasara zvemushonga, uyo wakanga uchiri pedyo nekupisa kwelava, zvichiyerera zvichidzika mugomo. Mwenje weorenji wakauya, uye gore rakamuka murima, richipararira kusvika rafuridzirwa nemhepo. Maminitsi mashoma ega ega, kuputika kutsva kwakaitwa nevanhu kunovhenekera denga.
Nzira chete iyo vanhu vasiri vashandi vanogona kupinda mumugodhi uyu nechisimba ndeyekupfuura nemuLake Matano, saka ndakatora chikepe. Zvadaro Amos, aigara pamhenderekedzo yegungwa, akanditungamira nemuminda yemhiripiri kusvika tasvika pasi pegomo raimbova gomo uye ikozvino rava gomo risina chinhu, kusavapo. Dzimwe nguva unogona kuenda kunzvimbo yawakabva, uye pamwe ndipo panobva chikamu chemari muzvinhu zvakabatsira parwendo rwangu: mota, ndege, masikuta, malaptop, mafoni.
Editor London Review of Books, 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HNletters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and telephone number.
The Editor London Review of Books 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HN Letters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and phone number
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