Sorovako, iri pachitsuwa cheIndonesia cheSulawesi, ndeimwe yemigodhi mikuru yenickel pasi rose. Nickel chikamu chisingaoneki chezvinhu zvakawanda zvezuva nezuva: inonyangarika musimbi isina tsvina, kupisa zvinhu mumidziyo yemumba uye electrode mumabhatiri. Yakaumbwa anopfuura mamiriyoni maviri emakore apfuura apo zvikomo zvakakomberedza Sorovako zvakatanga kuonekwa pamwe chete nezvikanganiso zvinoshanda. Laterites - ivhu rakapfuma muiron oxide uye nickel - rakaumbwa nekuda kwekukukurwa kusingagumi kwemvura inonaya. Pandakachaira sikuta ndichikwidza gomo, pasi pakabva pachinja ruvara kuita tsvuku ine mitsetse yeropa-orange. Ndaiona chirimwa chenickel pachacho, chimuney chine guruva chebrown chakaenzana neguta. Matayi erori madiki saizi yemota akatutirana. Migwagwa inodimburwa nepamusoro pemakomo matsvuku uye mambure makuru anodzivirira kukoromoka kwevhu. Kambani yemugodhi yeMercedes-Benz mabhazi ane decker maviri anotakura vashandi. Mureza wekambani iyi unopeperetswa nemarori ekambani iyi nemaamburenzi asiri mumigwagwa. Nyika ine zvikomo uye ine gomba, uye pasi rakati dzvuku rakati sandarara rakapetwa kuita zigzag trapezoid. Nzvimbo iyi inochengetedzwa newaya dzine minzwa, magedhi, marambi emumigwagwa uye mapurisa emakambani anofamba-famba munzvimbo yemakondisheni inenge saizi yeLondon.
Mugodhi uyu unoshandiswa nePT Vale, iyo ine chikamu chehurumende dzeIndonesia neBrazil, ine masheya akabatwa neCanada, Japan nemamwe makambani epasi rose. Indonesia ndiyo inogadzira nickel hombe pasi rose, uye Vale ndiye wechipiri pakukura mucheri wenickel mushure meNorilsk Nickel, kambani yekuRussia inogadzira madhipoziti ekuSiberia. Muna Kurume, zvichitevera kupinda kweRussia kuUkraine, mitengo yenickel yakawedzera kaviri pazuva uye kutengeserana paLondon Metal Exchange kwakamiswa kwevhiki. Zviitiko zvakadai zvinoita kuti vanhu vakaita saElon Musk vashamise kuti nickel yavo yakabva kupi. Muna Chivabvu, akasangana neMutungamiriri weIndonesia Joko Widodo kuti vakurukure nezve "kubatana" kunobvira. Anofarira nekuti mota dzemagetsi dzenguva refu dzinoda nickel. Bhatiri reTesla rine makirogiramu makumi mana. Zvisingashamisi, hurumende yeIndonesia inofarira zvikuru kutamira kumotokari dzemagetsi uye zvirongwa zvekuwedzera zvibvumirano zvemigodhi. Zvichakadaro, Vale anotarisira kuvaka maviri matsva anonyungudutsa muSorovaco uye kusimudzira imwe yacho.
Nickel kuchera muIndonesia chinhu chitsva. Mukutanga kwezana ramakore rechi20, hurumende yekoloni yeDutch East Indies yakatanga kufarira "zvinhu zveparutivi", zvitsuwa zvisiri Java neMadura, izvo zvinoumba huwandu hwezvitsuwa. Muna 1915, Dutch mining engineer Eduard Abendanon akataura kuti akanga awana nickel deposit kuSorovako. Makore makumi maviri gare gare, HR “Flat” Elves, nyanzvi yezvematombo nekambani yekuCanada Inco, akasvika ndokuchera gomba rekuyedza. MuOntario, Inco inoshandisa nickel kugadzira mari uye zvikamu zvezvombo, mabhomba, ngarava nemafekitori. Kuedza kweElves kuwedzera muSulawesi kwakavhiringidzwa nekutora kweJapan kweIndonesia muna 1942. Kusvikira kudzoka kweInco muma1960, nickel yakanga isina kunyanya kukanganiswa.
Nekuhwina chibvumirano cheSorovaco muna 1968, Inco yaitarisira kuwana purofiti kubva mukuwanda kwevashandi vakachipa uye zvibvumirano zvekutengesa kunze kwenyika. Urongwa hwacho hwaiva hwekuvaka chinyungudusa, dhamu rekupa chikafu, uye chekuchera, uye kuunza vashandi vekuCanada kuti vatarise zvese. Inco yaida kuti mamaneja avo agare akachengeteka, sabhabhu yeNorth America yakanyatsochengetedzwa iri musango reIndonesia. Kuti vazvivake, vakahaya nhengo dzesangano rekunamata reIndonesia reSubud. Mutungamiriri wayo uye muvambi ndiMuhammad Subuh, akashanda seakaundendi muJava muma1920s. Anoti humwe husiku, paakanga achifamba, bhora rinopofumadza rechiedza rakawira pamusoro wake. Ikoku kwakaitika kwaari usiku huri hwose kwamakore anoverengeka, uye, mukuwirirana naye, kwakazarura “batano pakati pesimba roumwari rinozadza chisiko chapose pose nomweya womunhu.” Pakazosvika ma1950s, akange auya kutarisiro yaJohn Bennett, muBritish fossil anotsvaga mafuta uye muteveri wezvakavanzika George Gurdjieff. Bennett akakoka Subuh kuEngland muna 1957 uye akadzokera kuJakarta neboka idzva revadzidzi vekuEurope neAustralia.
Muna 1966, sangano rakagadzira femu yeinjiniya isingaite yainzi International Design Consultants, iyo yakavaka zvikoro nezvivakwa zvehofisi muJakarta (yakagadzirawo chirongwa chikuru cheDarling Harbor muSydney). Anoronga an extractivist utopia muSorovako, enclave yakasiyana neIndonesians, kure nemhirizhonga yemugodhi, asi yakapiwa zvizere navo. Muna 1975, nharaunda ine gedhi ine supamaketi, matare etenisi uye kirabhu yegorofu yevashandi vekunze yakavakwa makiromita mashoma kubva kuSorovako. Mapurisa akazvimirira anorinda perimeter nekupinda musupermarket. Inco inopa magetsi, mvura, maairconditioner, nhare nekudya zvinobva kunze kwenyika. Maererano naKatherine May Robinson, nyanzvi yezvemagariro evanhu aiita basa romumunda imomo pakati pa1977 na1981, “vakadzi vomuBermuda zvikabudura nemabhanzi vaityaira kuenda kuchitoro chikuru kunotenga pizza yakaomeswa nechando vobva vamira kuti vawane tudyo nokunwa kofi panze. Imba ine mhepo inofefetera munzira inoenda kumba i“nyengedzo yemazuva ano” inobva kumba kweshamwari.
Iyo enclave ichiri yakarindwa uye yakatenderedzwa. Iye zvino vatungamiriri vepamusoro veIndonesia vanogara imomo, muimba ine bindu rinonyatsochengetwa. Asi nzvimbo dzavose dzakazara nemasora, simende yakatsemuka, uye nzvimbo dzekutamba dzine ngura. Mamwe mabungalows akasiiwa uye masango atora nzvimbo yavo. Ndakaudzwa kuti kushaikwa uku kwakakonzerwa nekutora kwaVale Inco muna 2006 uye kubva kunguva yakazara kuenda kubasa rekondirakiti uye nekuwedzera nharembozha. Musiyano uripo pakati pemasabhubhu neSorovako ikozvino wangove wekirasi-yakavakirwa: mamaneja vanogara mumasabhubhu, vashandi vanogara muguta.
Iyo chibvumirano pachayo haisvikike, ine anenge 12,000 makiromita mativi emakomo ane matanda akakomberedzwa nemafenzi. Magedhi akati wandei ane vanhu uye migwagwa yakavharwa. Nzvimbo inocherwa migodhi - ingangoita 75 square kilometres - yakakomberedzwa newaya ine minzwa. Humwe usiku ndakanga ndichichovha mudhudhudhu wangu ndichikwidza ndokumira. Handina kukwanisa kuona murwi weslag wakavigwa seri kwemupata, asi ndakatarisa zvisaririra zvezvinonhuhwira, izvo zvakanga zvichiri pedyo nekushisa kwemabota, zvichidzika mugomo. Raiti reorange rakavheneka, pakabva pasimuka gore murima, richipararira kusvika rapeperetswa nemhepo. Maminitsi mashoma oga oga, kuputika kutsva kwakaitwa nevanhu kunovheneka mudenga.
Nzira imwe chete iyo vasiri vashandi vanogona kuverevedza pamugodhi inopfuura neLake Matano, saka ndakakwira chikepe. Ipapo Amos uyo aigara kumahombekombe akanditungamirira nemuminda yemhiripiri kusvika tasvika mujinga megomo rave mhango, kusavapo. Dzimwe nguva iwe unogona kuita pilgrimage kunzvimbo yekwakabva, uye zvichida iyi ndiyo iyo chikamu chenickel chinobva muzvinhu zvakabatsira pakufamba kwangu: motokari, ndege, scooters, laptops, mafoni.
Editor London Review of Books, 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HNletters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and telephone number.
The Editor London Review of Books 28 Little Russell Street London, WC1A 2HN Letters@lrb.co.uk Please provide name, address and phone number
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